The Next and Necessary Step for the Vintage Industry

​Vintage stores in Western Europe are different from the vintage stores we see in places like New York or LA. The product is similar but the business model is notably more expansive; their definition of “vintage” is more inclusive of a wide variety of secondhand clothing. This frame of viewing vintage is one which vendors need to adopt worldwide if vintage has a chance to eclipse, or at least compete with the larger fashion industry. The European model could provide a roadmap for disrupting the dominance of American Big Box retailers.

Three years ago I spent time in a variety of European countries and I would visit the vintage stores in each city to see their stock and hopefully source uniquely European garments. I did find some gems one could only find overseas but I also came across an abundance of modern secondhand clothing marketed alongside more valuable vintage clothing. This was unfamiliar to me. In the States there seems to be a split between “vintage” and “thrift.” American vintage stores have unfamiliar patrons scratching their heads as to why an old ratty tee shirt or jacket could cost over $100, while thrift stores have modern mall clothing hanging loosely off ugly hangers and packed so tightly that you can’t even see what you’re buying. There is a wide valley between the two, but European stores demonstrate how businesses can bridge the gap.

In cities like Sevilla, Barcelona, and London there was not a distinction made between tiers on the secondhand hierarchy - it was an all-inclusive celebration. The stores were large and featured different sections based on the type of clothing. For snobs like me there were true vintage sections and for the more casual consumer there were racks and racks of y2k sports jerseys, music tees, denim and whatever else the fashion industry has pumped out over the last twenty years. For the first time I felt like I was in a vintage department store rather than a cute boutique and it gave me a sense of the potential SCALE of vintage in the future. But wait. How would a larger trend of melding the two worlds change how the public sees second hand clothing? What is the value proposition and what is the ultimate benefit?

The answer lies in the clothing’s presentation. This may sound oversimplistic, but the human animal is very susceptible to marketing and the overall ambiance of a garment and the store it's found in. That is the central problem with places like Goodwill or Savers. There is simply too much stock to curate effectively and showcase the value of donated clothing. You might run into a $300 jacket and pass on it because it's covered in cat hair and hanging asymmetrically off a broken plastic hanger. I’d argue one would be more inclined to purchase that jacket if it was cleaned, ironed, and placed on a wooden hanger alongside similar items. That is the potential of the European model: customers are allowed to forget, or at least dismiss, the secondhand nature of what they’re being asked to buy. The potential is celebration by association, and THAT is what the industry needs to propel itself to a truly global scale.

In terms of market share, secondhand fashion in the U.S. is making considerable headway in terms of revenues; in 2025 the secondhand market was worth $49 billion and is projected to reach $56 billion in 2026 (Forbes, 2025). That said, conventional American brands still posted $303 billion in sales this year and the global fashion industry still generates nearly a trillion dollars annually (Statista, 2025). It is great news that the secondhand market is growing so rapidly but there is much ground to make up if the ultimate goal is to legitimately compete with the fashion industry.

The European vintage model is a nuanced strategy that could be useful in this pursuit, especially regarding the manner in which Americans consume. Regardless of the increasing success of the secondhand market, vintage still needs an entree into the world of American big box stores. Our roads and malls are populated with places like LLBean and Dicks Sporting Goods and they will continue to make money as long as they remain uncontested in the context of abundant convenience. A time-stressed mother is not likely to root around several thrift stores for her kid’s back to school shopping when her entire shopping spree can be done at Macy’s. Yes, some vintage stores already practice the inclusion of many types of secondhand clothing (Shoutout to Circle Thrift and Rumors in Richmond VA), but until there is a franchise akin to Pacsun or Urban Outfitters which exclusively sells refurbished secondhand clothing, the industry will be stuck in second to brands that preside over our shopping centers. If a group of motivated and monied vintage vendors got together and started a business practicing the European Model it could prove to be a huge success.

Consumers want to be ethical but are simultaneously beholden to convenience. The onus is on us as a vintage community to provide the abundant quantity and presence that established department stores offer in our shopping centers. This is not to say there shouldn’t be thrift stores or dedicated vintage stores; I still want to be able to drop a paycheck on a vintage grail and low-tier secondhand clothing should still get sold before it heads to a landfill. However, our country lacks a convincing middle ground that fits into the public’s shopping tendencies. Plato’s closet, with its large storefronts and variety of secondhand clothing, comes to mind as a good example of an American iteration of the European model but they don’t go far enough. There needs to be a space where vintage nerds and casual shoppers can come together and uplift secondhand clothing in general. That is one major appeal of large retailers is it not? There are expensive and aspirational products directly alongside an offering of basics, all presented in an aesthetically pleasing fashion. If I had a billion dollars of investment I’d do this TODAY. I don’t however, so if this piece ends up in the hands of a wealthy person who is interested in upheaving the fashion industry, I’d happily offer my consulting services.

Have a great day, Buy secondhand,

Henry